Interlaced Cables Knitting Stitch Pattern

Imagine this Interlaced Cables Knitting Stitch on your next sweater. The intricate details are absolutely gorgeous.

Swatch of the Interlaced Cables Cable Knit Stitch on a fur blanket.Pin

Welcome to Day 19 of the 21 Days of Cable Knit Stitches Series!
Previous -> Day 18: Garter Horseshoe Cable Knitting Stitch Pattern
Next -> Day 20: Double-O Cable Knitting Stitch Pattern

Cables, cables and more cables. All these cables in one pattern! I know this one looks daunting, but it’s not so bad, really, I promise! Most of the rows are repeats and the cable stitches are easy to memorize. Just try one repeat to see if you like it, if you don’t then chalk it up to a learning experience. However, I have the feeling that you’re gonna be hooked! (pun intended!)

Learn how to knit the Interlaced Cables Knit Stitch in today’s video tutorial + grab the FREE Headband Knitting Pattern below!

About the Stitch

The Interlaced Cable Stitch is a 32 row repeat, consisting of 4 simple cables in a simple pattern that’s easy to memorize.

This Interlaced Cable Stitch consists of 4 cable stitches. 2 use 4 stitches and 2 use 8 stitches. For 16 rows you’ll be knitting the cables in the center and then knit a large cable to create a horseshoe and swap the cables to the outside edges. Creating a lovely fabric with the gorgeous texture of woven cable stitches.

If you’re knitting a stockinette stitch scarf or blanket and you’d like to add this cable pattern, having a few reverse stockinette stitches on either side of your cable will give it more definition, so it “pops.”

This is not a reversible pattern, meaning that the front and back are not the same.

There aren’t any increases or decreases, so you should always have the same number of stitches on the needles.

Skill level: Intermediate / Advanced Beginner Knitters

Yarn, Needles & Notions

Yarn Weight: Bulky Yarn
Yardage: 95 yards (87 meters)
Suggested Yarn: Imperial Bulky Yarn Native Twist
Needle Size: US 9 (5.5 mm) Knitting Needles
Cable Needle
Darning Needle / Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
Scissors

Yarn Substitutions

You can use any yarn you’d like. To get the right gauge, start with the recommended needle size. If you’re stitches are too loose, use smaller needles and if you’re stitches are too tight use larger needles.

Interlaced Cable Stitch Swatch Instructions

Knit flat using straight needles:

CO 19 STS

Beginning Rows:
Row 1 (WS): K1, P8, K1, P8, K1
Row 2 (RS): P1, K8, P1
Row 3 (WS): K1, P8, K1, P8, K1
Row 4 (RS): P1, K8, P1

Cable Section:
Row 1 (WS): K1, P8, K1, P8, K1

Row 2 (RS): P1, C8B, P1, C8F, P1
Row 3 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
Row 4 (RS): P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1
Row 5 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
Row 6 (RS): P1, K3, P1, C4B, P1, C4F, P1, K3, P1
Row 7 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
Row 8 (RS): P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1
Row 9 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
Row 10 (RS): P1, K3, P1, C4B, P1, C4F, P1, K3, P1
Row 11 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
Row 12 (RS): P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1
Row 13 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
Row 14 (RS): P1, K3, P1, C4B, P1, C4F, P1, K3, P1
Row 15 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
Row 16 (RS): P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1
Row 17 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
Row 18 (RS): P1, C8B, P1, C8F, P1
Row 19 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
Row 20 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1
Row 21 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
Row 22 (RS): P1, C4B, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, C4F, P1
Row 23 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
Row 24 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1
Row 25 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
Row 26 (RS): P1, C4B, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, C4F, P1
Row 27 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
Row 28 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1
Row 29 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
Row 30 (RS): P1, C4B, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, C4F, P1
Row 31 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
Row 32 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1
Row 33 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
Repeat rows 2 – 33, until desired length.

Video Tutorial

*Check out some of my other Cable Knit Stitches.

Interlaced Cable Stitch Headband Pattern Instructions
(Free Knitting Pattern)

Knit flat using straight needles:

CO 21 STS

Beginning Rows:
Row 1, 3 (WS): K1TBL, K1, P8, K1, P8, K1, K1TBL
Row 2, 4 (RS): WYIF S1PW, P1, K8, P1, K8, P1, WYIF S1PW

Cable Section:
Row 1 (WS): K1TBL, K1, P8, K1, P8, K1, K1TBL

Row 2, 18 (RS): WYIF S1PW, P1, C8B, P1, C8F, P1, WYIF S1PW
Row 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17 (WS): K1TBL, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, K1TBL
(Knit the knits and purl the purls)
Row 4, 8, 12, 16 (RS): WYIF S1PW, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, WYIF S1PW
(Knit the knits and purl the purls)
Row 6, 10, 14 (RS): WYIF S1PW, P1, K3, P1, C4B, P1, C4F, P1, K3, P1, WYIF S1PW
Row 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33 (WS): K1TBL, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, K1TBL
(Knit the knits and purl the purls)
Row 20, 24, 26, 28, 32 (RS): WYIF S1PW, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, WYIF S1PW
(Knit the knits and purl the purls)
Row 22, 26, 30 (RS): WYIF S1PW, P1, C4B, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, C4F, P1, WYIF S1PW
Repeat rows 2 – 33, until it’s about 18” (46cm) long, or desired length.

To End:
End on a row 33
BO knitting the knits and purling the purls
Sew the CO & BO edges together
To see how I do it, watch my video: How to Sew the Seam on a Headband

Headband Notes

The CO edge is the width.
I like using circular knitting needles or DPN’s for a small swatch, it’s easier on my hands than full length straight needles.
You can use any category of yarn you’d like, just keep in mind that the thinner the yarn, the narrower your headband.

Cable Stitch Inspiration

Suggested Project Ideas:
Hats
Sweaters
Headbands
Scarves
Blankets
Shawl

Suggested Trim:
1×1 Rib Stitch
Seed Stitch
Garter Stitch
Moss Stitch

Abbreviations : Knitting Techniques

* – * – repeat between *asterisks* to the end of the round
BO – bind-off in pattern
CO – cast-on (long-tail cast-on method)
C4B – cable 4 back – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold it in the back of your work, knit the next 2 stitches off your left hand needle and then knit the 2 stitches off the cable needle
C4F – cable 4 front – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold it in the front of your work, knit the next 2 stitches off your left hand needle and then knit the 2 stitches off the cable needle
C8B – cable 8 back – slip 4 stitches to a cable needle and hold it in the back of your work, knit the next 4 stitches off your left hand needle and then knit the 4 stitches off the cable needle
C8F – cable 8 front – slip 4 stitches to a cable needle and hold it in the front of your work, knit the next 4 stitches off your left needle and then knit the 4 stitches off the cable needle
K – knit stitches (K1 means to knit 1 stitch)
K1TBL – knit 1 stitch through the back loop
P – purl stitches (P2 means to purl 2 stitches)
RS – right side of work
S1PW – slip one stitch purl-wise
STS – stitches
WS – wrong side of work
WYIF – with yarn in front

Right Side Rows : Front of Work

swatch of cable knit stitch

Wrong Side Rows : Back of Work

swatch of cable knit stitch

Interlaced Cable Stitch Swatch Instructions (Download)

This Interlaced Cable Stitch consists of 4 cable stitches. 2 use 4 stitches and 2 use 8 stitches. For 16 rows you’ll be knitting the cables in the center and then knit a large cable to create a horseshoe and swap the cables to the outside edges. Creating a lovely fabric with the gorgeous texture of woven cable stitches.
Prep Time15 minutes
Active Time2 hours 30 minutes
Total Time2 hours 45 minutes

Equipment

Materials

  • Any Yarn

Instructions

Knit flat using straight needles:

  • CO 19 STS
  • Beginning Rows:
  • Row 1 (WS): K1, P8, K1, P8, K1
  • Row 2 (RS): P1, K8, P1
  • Row 3 (WS): K1, P8, K1, P8, K1
  • Row 4 (RS): P1, K8, P1
  • Cable Section:
  • Row 1 (WS): K1, P8, K1, P8, K1
  • Row 2 (RS): P1, C8B, P1, C8F, P1
  • Row 3 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
  • Row 4 (RS): P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1
  • Row 5 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
  • Row 6 (RS): P1, K3, P1, C4B, P1, C4F, P1, K3, P1
  • Row 7 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
  • Row 8 (RS): P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1
  • Row 9 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
  • Row 10 (RS): P1, K3, P1, C4B, P1, C4F, P1, K3, P1
  • Row 11 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
  • Row 12 (RS): P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1
  • Row 13 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
  • Row 14 (RS): P1, K3, P1, C4B, P1, C4F, P1, K3, P1
  • Row 15 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
  • Row 16 (RS): P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1
  • Row 17 (WS): K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1
  • Row 18 (RS): P1, C8B, P1, C8F, P1
  • Row 19 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
  • Row 20 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1
  • Row 21 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
  • Row 22 (RS): P1, C4B, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, C4F, P1
  • Row 23 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
  • Row 24 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1
  • Row 25 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
  • Row 26 (RS): P1, C4B, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, C4F, P1
  • Row 27 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
  • Row 28 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1
  • Row 29 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
  • Row 30 (RS): P1, C4B, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, C4F, P1
  • Row 31 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
  • Row 32 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1
  • Row 33 (WS): K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1
  • Repeat rows 2 – 33, until desired length.

Abbreviations : Knitting Techniques

  • * – * – repeat between *asterisks* to the end of the round
  • BO – bind-off in pattern
  • CO – cast-on (long-tail cast-on method)
  • C4B – cable 4 back – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold it in the back of your work, knit the next 2 stitches off your left hand needle and then knit the 2 stitches off the cable needle
  • C4F – cable 4 front – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold it in the front of your work, knit the next 2 stitches off your left hand needle and then knit the 2 stitches off the cable needle
  • C8B – cable 8 back – slip 4 stitches to a cable needle and hold it in the back of your work, knit the next 4 stitches off your left hand needle and then knit the 4 stitches off the cable needle
  • C8F – cable 8 front – slip 4 stitches to a cable needle and hold it in the front of your work, knit the next 4 stitches off your left needle and then knit the 4 stitches off the cable needle
  • K – knit stitches (K1 means to knit 1 stitch)
  • K1TBL – knit 1 stitch through the back loop
  • P – purl stitches (P2 means to purl 2 stitches)
  • RS – right side of work
  • S1PW – slip one stitch purl-wise
  • STS – stitches
  • WS – wrong side of work
  • WYIF – with yarn in front