{FREE} Cocoon Scoop Shrug Knitting Pattern : Resolve


Grab the FREE RESOLVE: Cocoon Knitting Pattern, aka scoop shrug, blanket sweater, identity crisis garment :) Includes a video to add sleeves!



Available Sizes: One

Pattern Format: Written Pattern, No Chart

Pattern Language: English

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

PDF Format: Printer & Mobile Friendly

Bonus: Video


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Knit Flat {Back & Forth}

Knit & Purl Stitches

Lace Stitches



Yarn Weight: Super Bulky

Yardage: 550 – 600 yards {503 – 549 meters}

Suggested Yarn: Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick

Needle Size: US 15 {10mm} Circular Needles with a 40” {100cm} Cable

Extras: Stitch Markers, Cable Needle


Yarn Substitutes:

Cascade Lana Grande

Lang Yarns Virginia

Phildar Phil Alaska

Rowan Big Wool Yarn

MillaMia Super Chunky

Read more about yarn substitutions here {+ video}.



Measurements: 42″ wide x 28″ {107cm x 71cm}, without sleeves

Gauge: 9 STS & 16 rows per 4” {10cm} square, knit in the pattern below

Weight: 1lb 12.2oz {800g}, with sleeves



Not reversible.

Knit top down.

Knit using a lace stitch.

To make it wider, cast-on in multiples of 2.

Knit flat, back & forth, using circular needles.

Circular needles are used to accommodate the large number of CO stitches.

The CO STS create the width, which is the side that goes across your shoulders.





Pattern, Knit Flat {Back & Forth}:


Row 1 {RS}: K1 *K2TOG, YO* K1

Row 2 & 4 {WS}: *P*

Row 3 {RS}: K1 *YO, K2TOG* K1

Repeat rows 1-4, 28 times or until desired length. { I used up 5 skeins of yarn, leaving 1 for the sleeves, which I used a little over half a skein for the sleeves.}


This is knit from top to bottom, it’s super easy to adjust the length.

Block it to your desired dimensions. I blocked mine to measure 42″ x 36” {107cm x 91cm}, it springs back.

Lay flat, bring the short sides together and sew about 10” {25cm} from the end up  to create the arm holes.


Sleeves {optional}:

I used 26 STS for my sleeves. I knit them in the *K1, P1* pattern.


Add the second sleeve.

Weave in the ends and it’s ready to wear ;)



I quickly learned that I usually added an extra YO or missed the last YO on a row.

There are a lot of STS and I didn’t want to count them at the end of every even row, so when I came to the end of row I’d look back and see what my second stitch was.

If it was a K2TOG I knew that I needed to add a YO before the K1 at the end.

If the second stitch was a YO then I knew I needed to end the row on a K2TOG, K1.

I hope that helps.


For example:

Row 1: K1 *K2TOG, YO* K1 {make sure the 2nd to last stitch is a YO}

Row 2 & 4: *P*

Row 3: K1 *YO, K2TOG* K1 {make sure the 2nd to last stitch is a K2TOG}

I still ended up doing a lot of counting on my purl rows to double check to make sure I was right… and if I miscounted I counted again to triple check!

I counted a lot on this pattern.



* – * – repeat between *

BO – bind-off in pattern

CO – cast-on {long-tail cast-on method}

K – knit stitches {K1 means to knit 1 stitch}

P – purl stitches {P2 means to purl 2 stitches}

RS – right side

STS – stitches

WS – wrong side

YO – yarn over




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